Eyebrow Mapping 101: A Step-by-Step Guide to Achieving Flawless Brows

Eyebrow mapping is one of the most reliable techniques you can use when it comes to shaping your eyebrows yourself. In fact, this is the exact technique your local technician would use if you were to make a microblading appointment. If you’re tired of spending money to shape your eyebrows or recovering from a botched eyebrow job, here’s a tutorial you can follow right in the comfort of your home. 

I’ve had my fair share of eyebrow appointments that have gone completely wrong until I finally decided – no one else would touch these brows! Some may call it trust issues but we’re going to call it a learning opportunity. 

Eyebrow mapping allows you to create perfectly shaped brows starting from the front all the way through the arch and down to the tail. By the end of this post, you’ll be able to shape your brow with confidence. Before we get started here are some tools you’ll need to shape your brows:

• Dental floss or thread
• Eyebrow pencil/pen
• Spoolie

Steps to Shape Your Brows Using Eyebrow Mapping

 

1. Cut and coat about 10 inches of thread 

Most tutorials would say to coat your thread with an eyebrow pencil but in my experience, the thread ends up cutting straight through the point of my makeup pencils. Instead, I suggest using any type of liquid makeup form that you can easily drag your thread through the product. Just make sure it’s darker than your skin tone so you can see your lines clearly. 

Here are two alternatives: Purchase a brow mapping pencil or order these pre-coated eyebrow threads from amazon. When I found this product I thought it was pretty awesome; it definitely cuts down the prep time and any mess that might end up on your hands. 

2. Mark the center point between your eyebrows 

The center point will be your starting guide to creating the map of your eyebrows. I used a white eyeliner to make my center point as distinctive as possible. As you start to create your lines feel free to mark your intersecting points. During this process, you’ll notice that the intersecting points are where your thread needs to line up to create symmetry. 

3. Create three vertical lines leading up towards your forehead

 Your first vertical line should start from the center point and go straight up. The 2nd and 3rd lines will be on the left and right of your centerline. The placement of these two lines should start from the center of your nostril and lead straight up to your forehead.

Considering that our faces are not flat, you may find this step a bit difficult. To make this step easier simply, place the starting point of your thread at the center of your nostril and mark a small guideline. Next, use your guideline to bring your thread straight up the side of your nose to create a straight line with the thread. 

4. Create a diagonal line from the corner of the nose, through the corner of the eye

This step will help determine the length of the eyebrow tail. If your brows are too sparse or you’ve shaved the tips of your eyebrow, make sure the thread is as straight as possible to get the best possible placement. Your thread should hit the corner of your eye slightly above your temple. Repeat on the opposite side.  

5. Create your 4th and 5th vertical line to find your arches

This line will mark the highest point of the eyebrow arch. Looking straight ahead, line your thread along the outside of the pupil, leaving a little bit of space in between. Follow this step for both eyebrows.

Another way to find the arch is by starting from the corner of your nostril and bringing the thread up and through either the iris or the sides of the pupil. Having dark eyes I found this method a bit more difficult. Since all face shapes are different, you can test out which angle fits your face best. 

6. Measure your lines to check if they are even

Take this time to make any slight adjustments. Professional technicians use calipers for their measurements. Since most of us probably don’t have one of these in our home you can use a small ruler or measuring tape if you desire. But eyeballing it will work just fine. 

7. Lay your thread horizontally to mark the lowest part of the brows

The first horizontal line should lay right across the first 3 vertical lines you made in the first steps. Use your brow bone as a guide of where the line should lay.  

8. Create a second horizontal line above the beginning points of your brows.

This line will determine how thick you want the body of your brows to be. At this point, you should now have what looks like 2 squares/rectangles in the center of your brows. 

9. Create a third horizontal line from arch to arch

This line marks the highest point of your arch. If you touch your brow with your finger you should be able to feel right where your brow bone starts to protrude outwards. From there carry your thread straight across till it meets the arch on the opposite side. 

10. Create a fourth horizontal line from underneath one arch to the other

The trick to this step is to determine where the hairline actually starts. Once you find that point, start your thread off on one side and bring it over to the next, meeting at the arch. 

11. Create the top of the tail

Starting from the first set of diagonal lines you made, position your thread diagonally facing upwards, towards your forehead. The thread should create two intersecting points: one at the tail of the brow and one at the arch. Keep in mind that your tail should not go below your lowest horizontal line. Repeat on the opposite side.

12. Create the bottom of the tail

Place the thread diagonally through the end of the tail extending up, until it meets the lowest horizontal line right underneath the arch. 

13. Outline your eyebrows

Now that you have all the correct lines in place, you should be able to see your desired brow shape. Take a brow pencil and begin to define the shape of your brow as a whole. When you’re done you can remove any unnecessary lines. 

What do I do once I’m done eyebrow mapping?

Now that you have your desired eyebrow shape you can begin to groom your brows to remove any long pieces of hair that you may see crossing your outline. If you have spots that need to be filled you can easily fill them in with your brow pencil or a brow tint. 

I suggest using this technique to shape your brow at home when you have spare time. Placing the lines in the right spots does take some practice but the end results are so worth it! By being your own brow tech you’re in control of how thick or thin you want your brows to be. And if you ever get to a point where you’ve lost all hope for your brows, make an appointment with a professional but be vocal about your expectations.